A nice sharp seam there for topstitching against. Again, make sure my seam allowance is going towards the duplex . And smooth it out that way. There we go. That's nice and smooth. and ready for top stitching right after its steam massage We're going to topstitch this fabric now. Oh, I can see my thread full body fishnet  is threatening. Okay, I've reset my machine to the length that I want my topstitching to be. And I've positioned my needle so that it's very slightly to the right. I don't want to stitch. But I do want to do two rows of stitching, one close to the edge and one on the other side, because my aim is to catch this edge of the seam allowance down with my topstitching. Remember, I said a while back, the whole point of the inside.

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 A bra has to be as smooth as possible. We want to catch the edge of these seam allowances down. So that it can't flip over when we're wearing the bra. You could just do that one top stitching line there if you want to, but I think that two rows look nicer, look more deliberate, and also it's just stronger. You've got two rows of stitching there to help that seam be as strong as possible. Holding my threads, I'm going to start off by going slowly. You're looking for accuracy here rather than speed, and smoothing the fabrics apart a little bit so you have a nice sharp line there. I'm going to get down to the bottom, I'm going to sew off a few stitches 

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To get a little thread chain so that I can spin this around and come back the other way. If you don't want to do that, you can just finish there and snip the threads and come back the other way.

So just check that I've caught that down. Yep, so you can see that that seam is now nice and secure. The seam allowances are stitched down flat, so I'll top stitch the other side to match and give this another gentle steaming, and then we'll move on to the cups. Okay, I've top stitched and repressed my frame, so that's that ready out of the way, and we'll look at the cups. 

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If you have one solid bottom cut piece, well then you have nothing to do at this stage, but if you have seams in your lower cup, some styles like the ruby and so on have two or maybe even three other seams in there. However many seams you've got, you're going to sew those together first in the bottom cup, so I'll take my pins out and I've got my markings on there so I know which way around it goes. Move those away for a moment, let me switch that off. I think it affects the lighting, but I'm not sure. Here are my two pieces It's vital that you've marked the notches you can and many is the time. Well, not many, but more than I care to remember that I have ended up somehow.

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By coincidence, it's kind of more or less the same length, so as you sew it together, you don't really notice that it's not the right way up, so make sure you mark your notches, make sure you lay it out and it should make sense, so your bottom cut piece should look like a whale. That's what I think it's perfectly. That's what somebody said to me and it's stuck in my head. It's so silly that I remember it. This is the whale's little pointy nose and this is its tail and so you're looking at it and it's all nice smooth continuous lines, so I'm going to flip right sides together and pin. Now whenever I pin bra pieces, I start off with a notch.

And there's a little bit sticking up, but that's fine as long as you're aiming for the quarter inch seam line Put one pin in there again. If you don't want to use pins, you just want to wing it, that's fine whoopsie If you want to use wonder clips, use wonder clips. Pin this bottom bit together again with this little dog here. Okay, switch this on again  And sew these pieces together. Come on, there we go. They're a little bit like short brass seams. That's one saving grace about them. They're short but they're a bit tricky and a bit fiddly. I'm not happy where I put that pin. Okay, let me move that. That's better. So if you've got one of these fancy pants, stiletto things or a little pair of scissors or just sharp nails, you can use them to get everything in the right position and smooth things together. The good thing about duoplex is that it does. It's not slippery like silk but it does slide The pieces do slide against each other, so it's easy to make sure that you can maneuver them and make sure everything's lined up as you want it to be as you're going.